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highsierra
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Date Posted:01/10/2009 10:34 PMCopy HTML

Kelden's K9 Behavior: Aggression
DOG ON DOG AGGRESSION

by Kelley Ireland

There are many different types of aggression. The most common form of aggression is called: "dominance" aggression, followed by "territorial" aggression.Other types of aggression are:learned aggression(trained intentionally or unintentionally),small animal aggression, large animal aggression, fearful aggression, dog to dog aggression, and combinations of the above.

Many solutions are offered, but should NOT be attempted unless you can convince your dog that you are not apprehensive, and that any other party involved is not fearful of the dog's reactions.

If you tense up, your dog will know it immediatly and take it as a signal that he too, should get ready for action. If you are trying to convience your dog that another party is "ok", then the other party must act completely normal, otherwise their reactions will communicate that something is wrong, and the dog may respond by displaying aggressive behavior.

It is often easier to start out the corrective training on a neutral territory with a fence between you and the target of your dog's aggression. This will allow you to be more relaxed so as not to alert your dog.

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It is believed that dogs do not care so much where they belong on the hierarchy ladder, just as long as they know where they belong. This straight belief becomes somewhat bent when dealing with very dominant dogs who obviously wish to be alpha, and very insecure dogs who obviously will be submissive to anyone and anything they encounter. But still as a belief, it holds some weight; especially when trying to convince people that they need not feel "sorry"for the "omega"(bottom dog) . Probelms will almost always occur when well-meaning people feel sorry for the omega dog and unknowingly begin treating it as an "alpha", AND CREATING VICIOUS JEALOUSY AND DOG FIGHTS IN THE PROCESS.
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The first thing to do when you have two or more dogs is to figure out which one isthe "alpha." The alpha dog usually displays the following:

* ALWAYS wins a tug-of war with other dogs
* RECEIVES the most attention from the other dogs
* RARELY licks the other dogs on the mouth.
* Wins all STARING CONTEST with the other dogs
* May become JEALOUS when the other dogs receive attention from you.
* May STEAL or GUARDtoys,chewies, food, etc.
*Usually has FIRST CHOICE of the best sleeping areas.
* May push his way to be FIRST out/in the door.
* May MOUNT the other dogs(male & female).

In contrast, the "omega" dog usually displays the following:

* ALWAYS gives up first at tug-of-war.
* GIVES the most attention and affection to the other dogs, usually licking their mouths.
* LOOKS AWAY when being stared at by the other dogs, and probably by you too.
* Freely GIVES UPtoys, chewies, food,sleeping area, etc.to the other dogs.
* Rolls on back and displays "BELLY" to other dogs, and probably to you too.
* May pee upon greeting the other dogs, and possibly people too.

BACK TO BASICS; Once you've determined where everyone stands on the hierarchy ladder, it is YOUR responsibility to reassure them constantly and make them feel securein their positions. If an alpha dog does not feel secure in his position as alpha, he will usually exaggerate his position to reassure himself. Exaggerating dominance(i.e., alpha)=aggression. This can be a problem at best, and deadly at worst. Therefore, here are some suggestions on how to reassure your dogs.
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The alpha dog gets everything FIRST !
He gets first choice of tpys, chewies, sleeping areas, etc. This can be tricky. Although he gets first choice (because you respect his alpha position), he is not allowed to change his mind and STEAL toys, etc. by staring, growling, pouncing, or attacking. It is your responsibility that you do not allow him to "bully." He may be allowed to "guard" his chosen toy as long as he isn't growling at the other dogs clear across the room, not letting them pass thru door openings, hoarding all the toys and guarding them, etc. If he begins this behavior, take his objects away, put it out of sight and sneak it into the dogs box for someone else to find at a later time. The easiest way to give your alpha dog first choice is to take two toys, present them to him, let him pick one, then give the other one to the omega dog.

One of the best ways I've found to reassure pack position, especially when there is a new furry arrival, is to give the dogs' food treats in pack order. Let's say the alpha dog is "Buck", and the omega dog is "Tyler." Instruct all the dogs to SIT. Then, say "Buck's Treat!" and give a food treat to Buck. Then say "Tyler's Treat!" and give treat to Tyler. This exercise alone spells out very clearly where everyone stands on the ladder and also confirms they are both at the bottom of the "people+dog pack" because YOU are giving the food.

While you are doing the above suggestions it is important that you do not unwittingly encourage aggression in the alpha dog. This sometimes happends because people are under the false impression that they are supposed tolavish the alpha dog with attention, while almost ignoring the omega dog. If this happends, the omega dog may have a difficult time gaining confidence in itself because it is rarely praised for anything. And to make matters worse, the alpha dog may beleive that your true desire is to ignore the omega dog and give him(alpha dog) attention. Therefore, he beleives he is serving you by growling and showing aggression towards the omega dog.

This situation can be difficult and usually occurs when introducing a new dog into the pack.

Although the alpha dog may get more attention, do not lavish attention on him while purposely ignoring the omega dog. At the same time, you need to try tosneak in as much attention toward that omega dog as possible! Don't lock the alpha in another room to give the omega attention, rather, give the alpha a"job"to do, so he is servingyou and pleasing you. Play fetch with him while you pet the omega dog(easier said then done, but possible), put him in a down stay while you groom the omega dog(after you groomed him first) . When your done grooming, release them both at the sametime, then PRAISE the alpha first,then the omega. Do not praisethe omega less, just last!
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Avoid "holding" one dog.

Whenever a dog is on a lap, or withina "hug"(especially if the dog is Physically higher then the other, i.e. on a chair, couch, etc), they may become territorially protective of you the territory. If you must hold a dog, try to hold the alpha first to appease him, then put him down stay while you hold the omega. I have personally found that praising with food treats can be beneficial if you have a food-oriented alpha and you give the treats a (physical) distance apart from one another. If the dogs are commanded to "sit" before given a food treat every time before they are given the treat, they should stay in the "sit" apart from one another until they are both done eating and you release them. This will inhibit any desire for the alpha dog to attack the omega for the food.

When you have three or more dogs in a household it can be more difficult to figure out the pack hierarchy.In any pack, the standard is:

1. Alpha Male(Most dominant male)
2. Alpha Female(Most dominant Female)
3. Beta(Second most dominant Male)
4. Everyone in between
5. Omega(Most Submissive)

Aggression towards other dogs outside the pack.

Most dog fights happen because of carelessness. Your dog does not have tolike everydoghe sees. If you watchhim and get to understand his behavior patterns, dogfights and aggression towards other dogs can almost always be avoided. If your dog is leashed and growls at another dog or raises his hackles, first correct his unnecessary aggressive display with a firm leash correction and a no-nonsence NO. Then promptly remove him from the area of the other dog. If you ask for and get agreement fromthe owner of the other dog, you can, instead, stay long enough to give two or three more corrections. Always follow up with praise when and if the dog acts blase' towards the other dog after your correction.
Sometimes the leash, your instrument of control and safety, can be the cause of the aggression. On leash, your dog feels more frustrated as well as more feisty. Like the held back drunk who says, "let me go and I'll rip him apart," so the leashed dog feels tougher when held than when free. However, good judgement must be exercised before dogs are set free in the hopes that they will play.
Sometimes, when free and given room to manever, dogs will work things out on their own in a peaceful manner. They will sniff each other out, be a bit pushy, growl, walk on their toes and then play like puppies- but not always. Males often take an instant dislike to other males, perticularly but not only if they have been bred or if there is a bitch around, even a spayed one. Some males, depending on breed, temperment, enviroment, training and perhaps their hormones, take to easygoing play with other males dogs more or less all the time. Others never do. Bitches are less likly to fight, yet they may. You must KNOW your dog and watch other dogs. If everyone seems amenable and your dog willcome back when called, you can let him play with the other dogs-but don't do so with eyes closed.
If, with all your care and attention, a fight breaks out, try to break it up without getting your hands involved.Anyway you can douce the dogs with water often works to shock them enough to get them apart. If the dogs have tails, a person pulling on each dog can be effective. Some people grasp the hind legs of both dogs and lift them off the ground, but a dog in the middle of a fight may just lash out and bite, even if he would not normally do so.
There is no magic way of breaking up a fight without getting hurt ! If you are luck enough to have a blanket handy, toss it over the head to disrupt the fight. However, you may have to decide, quickly, if you will just stand by and let them fight it out or if you are willing to seperate them with the knowledge that you will probably be bitten.
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Reply
Recommend Delete    Message 3 of 6 in Discussion 
From: FrankSent: 7/5/2008 7:31 AM

K9 Military School <o:p></o:p>

The following is designed as a problem-solving tool only. Some of the items will be used for the rest of the dog's life - particularly the feeding regimen, possession, and the roadwork. Other items will be done only until the dog understands his position in society. <o:p></o:p>

When he graduates, release him from the items one at a time over a period of several weeks, watching for him to go back to his old ways. Many dog people and trainers suggest Military School one month in six as a preventative measure. It serves to keep the already obedience trained dog sharp and always remembering that you are still above him even tho he might be alpha dog in your dog pack. <o:p></o:p>

If there is any part of Military School that is liable to get you bitten while you're doing it, DON'T DO IT and GET HELP from a competent trainer! The following lessons will be a "must" for the dog who has shown dominance over human and other dog members of the household and needs to be brought down a peg or two. This is also useful for the alpha dog who is becoming overly aggressive to other dogs or animals in the family. Use some or all of the following suggestions to stem what could become major problems as dogs become adults. <o:p></o:p>

If you see signs at 7 months start this training then. As they reach sexual maturity, things can get quickly out of hand. Starting out early in the training of (especially) giant breeds, will assure the owner of an easy transition into adulthood. The following is not to be used in place of formal straight obedience training ie. in a class situation. <o:p></o:p>

1. Umbilical cord: This for overly dominant dogs in the family or those who are beginning to show the first signs of not thinking of their owners as above them. ie. Not staying in one place, not listening, mouthing humans and other animals. No dog should ever be allowed to put his mouth on you. Ever! As much as possible when you are at home, keep the dog on a leash and with you. Put a 6' leash on the dog, and attach the other end of the leash to a sturdy belt around your waist. Ignore the dog and go about your business. Having to constantly watch what you do and where you go will not only bond the dog to you, but will help make you important in his eyes. He learns that you are boss and he basically goes nowhere without you. <o:p></o:p>

2. Eye contact x 2: For up to 3 minutes twice a day, sit down with the dog sitting between your knees, and use a command such as Watch Me to get eye contact. If necessary, you might actually hold the dog's face to get eye contact. <o:p></o:p>

3. Obedience x 2: Twice a day, run quickly through an obedience session using whatever the dog knows how to do - Sit, Down, Come, Stay, Heel: repeat as needed. Train for 5 minutes each session. Do NOT touch the dog to praise him. Do not use treats as rewards. Voice praise only. For wildly happy dogs a quick and quiet "Good boy" is enough. Louder happier praise for a quieter dog, but still he must stay where he is and no touching on your part. <o:p></o:p>

4. Feeding: When food is left down for the dog to eat ad lib, the dog owns the food. Ownership is what dominance is all about, so we must take possession of the food. Feed the dog twice a day, in a confined area such as a crate. For giant breeds they should be kept from all exercise for one hour before eating and no heavy water drinking. After a full meal - another hour of quiet and no water.
Use a Feeding Ritual. Ask him if he's hungry, and if he's hungry, tell him to go to his area or get in his crate.
Then give him the food. As soon as he's finished, or as soon as he turns away from his food, take the dish away. If the dog is not successful at eating (doesn't eat his whole meal), give him half the amount at his next meal, until he is cleaning the bottom of the dish. A successful meal means he gets more at his next meal, until he is eating the amount that will keep him in optimum condition. The food must be high-quality and low-bulk. This is great for the poor eaters. Give no treats by hand. Don't change food brands all the time. Find a good one and stick with it. Poor eaters are usually made not born. Dogs love rituals and you are teaching his body to get ready to eat when he hears the beginning of the ritual. <o:p></o:p>

5. Possession is 9/10 of the Law: At least once a day, roll the dog over on the floor or on your lap, and handle him. Repeat the words These are my ears! This is my paw! This is my muzzle! This is my tail! as you handle him. If he struggles, express your annoyance with a growl and a little shake, and start again. It's important that the dog doesn't get away : then he has informed you that he owns his muzzle, and that can't be true. When he is completely relaxed and accepts your ownership, say OK and release him. Particularly work on feet. This will pay off when it comes time to do nails. <o:p></o:p>

6. Long Down-Stay: Do one 30-minute Down-Stay every day. You can watch TV but the dog must be in plain sight and you must be aware of him. He can roll over, go to sleep, and look annoyed or bored, but he cannot get up or walk away. <o:p></o:p>

7. I'm-The-Mommy Down: At least once a day, just because you felt like it, tell the dog to lie down. When he does, use your voice only to tell him he did a good job, say Okay or Stay, and walk away. If he gets up do not repeat the command but "place" him where he was told to stay the first time. And again leave him. Repeat if necessary. <o:p></o:p>

8. Bosshood Is In The Eye Of The Beholder: Consider life from the dog's point of view. He sleeps where he wants, he eats when he wants, he leads you around. Any wonder he gets the impression that he's the Boss?
Don't allow him to go through doors ahead of you.
Don't allow him to go up or down stairs ahead of you.
Don't allow him to lead you down hallways. Always position him so you are leading and he is following. Make him think about where you are and what you're doing. When he orders you to let him out, take charge of going outside. Build a ritual around the door. Focus his attention on you: Do you want to go out? Go to the door? Want to go out? Sit. Down. Sit. Stay. Then open the door and order him out: Okay, go outside! You change the situation so you are in charge of it. Keep the dog on the floor. Not on the couch, not on the chair, not halfway up the stairs surveying his domain, not in your lap, On the floor. Don't leave the dog loose in the house or yard when you're not home. Free run of the house when the Boss isn't home allows the dog to feel powerful and in charge. Don't allow the dog to sleep on your bed, or on a child's bed. Dogs recognize the bed as a throne for the Boss. Allowing them on it - especially dominant type dogs only encourages them to become more so. If he sleeps away from you, however, he will think that you own the bedroom, but he owns the rest of the house. The dog can sleep in your bedroom. but on his own bed. Crate young dogs or until they are trustworthy. <o:p></o:p>

9. Work Off Energy: Roadwork the dog 4 days a week. Start small, but work up to a mile for small dogs, 2 miles for medium dogs, and 3 miles for large dogs. Many problems will disappear with no more effort than road working. You can jog with the dog, or ride a bike, or longe him with a Flexilead, or use a motorized trike, or lend him to a jogger who's afraid of being mugged. (Do not road work a giant breed until 24 months old. Find alternate means of exercise - preferably off-leash romps.) <o:p></o:p>

10. Busy Hands Are Happy Hands: If you want to pet the dog, he must first do pushups : Sit, Down, Sit, Down, Sit, Down, Sit, Down : then you can pet him for a count of 5 only. He never gets petted because he wants to be or because he demands it, only because you want to and he earns it. Then you pet him for only a moment, and turn away with him wanting more. <o:p></o:p>

11. When dogs are young they will teach you to become the perfect housekeeper. Leave nothing around that isn't on display. The only things lying around can be the dog toys which he is allowed to play with. Keep them in a basket where he can find them. Always in the same place. Do not give him toys which look like other things in the home. ie. old socks or shoes. He cannot tell the difference. Chewers usually get that way because they have been brought up in homes where there is lots of interesting stuff to investigate lying around the floor. <o:p></o:p>

12. You're the Boss Rules: Give the dog only one toy. If he wants to chase the toy, bring it to you and let you have it, throw it again. If he won't chase it, or won't give it to you, turn your back and walk away. He has two choices, he can play with you and the toy, or he can play with the toy alone. <o:p></o:p>

13. Do not allow youngsters or adult humans to wrestle with your dog. It places you, in the dogs mind, as a sibling which also tells him he is on the same level as you. Wrong. Indulging in such play does not tell the dog who is boss and with a very alpha type dog, this can get dangerous as he reaches maturity. <o:p></o:p>

14. Eliminate Hormones: Have problem dogs neutered. It is a fact that most dog bites are made by whole, mature adult, dogs. Neuter early. It will not make him smaller. Studies in fact show the opposite. Dogs neutered early tend toward becoming taller than their unneutered siblings. Many problems will solve themselves with no more effort than this. Not only will the dog be healthier and easier to live with, but your life will be made simpler, and you eliminate the possibility of your problem dog producing more problem dogs. <o:p></o:p>

(author unknown) <o:p></o:p>

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